Embroidery types: flat, 3D puff, chain stitch, appliqué and patches

Embroidery makes even a simple logo look expensive. But "embroidery" covers very different techniques. Here's what to ask for.

Flat embroidery

The classic: satin and fill stitches lying flat on the fabric. Perfect for small left-chest logos and caps.

• Best for: logos up to ~10 cm, clean brand marks.
• Keep in mind: text smaller than ~5 mm high becomes unreadable.

3D puff embroidery

Stitched over a foam layer, so the design stands high off the garment. The signature look of caps.

• Best for: bold, simple shapes and thick letters.
• Keep in mind: no fine details or thin lines; minimum stroke around 4–5 mm.

Chain stitch

Looped stitches that form a chain, made on special machines. Vintage, hand-made feel.

• Best for: scripts, flowing lines, varsity and workwear looks.
• Keep in mind: fewer factories offer it, often at higher prices.

Appliqué

A piece of fabric (felt, twill, terry) is sewn onto the garment with a border stitch.

• Best for: large designs without huge stitch counts, varsity letters.
• Bonus: cheaper than filling a large area with stitches.

Patches

Made separately (embroidered, woven or PVC) and sewn or heat-applied afterwards.

• Best for: jackets, caps, bags; easy to add to blanks.

What drives the price

Embroidery is priced mostly on stitch count, plus a one-time digitising fee (turning your artwork into a stitch file, often €15–50).

Size	Rough stitch count
Small left chest logo (8 cm)	4,000–8,000
Cap front (10 × 5.5 cm)	6,000–10,000
Large back design (25 cm)	25,000–60,000+

Prepare your artwork

1. Send vector files (AI, PDF or SVG).
2. Give the exact size and thread colours (Pantone or Madeira numbers).
3. Simplify: fewer colours and thicker lines embroider better.
4. Ask for a sew-out (test embroidery) before bulk.

Compare it with printing in our print techniques guide.